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Showing posts with label The Shrimpton team. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Shrimpton team. Show all posts

25.7.09

Flights of Fancy


I've had uniforms on the brain for the past couple weeks. The subject keeps thrusting itself into my attention: whether through a daydream shared with a friend about the glories of British boarding schools, or references to WWII nurses during my subway reading time, uniforms keep popping up in my consciousness. I've always loved the concept of uniforms, and have always been vaguely disappointed by the fact that I've never had to wear one, except for sports (and somehow spandex crew unis simply aren't as romantic as wool skirts or severe cotton dresses). With my love of clothes, it may seem contrarian, but I'm utterly fascinated by situations where choice is removed from dressing.

In this vein, I'm also intrigued by moments when companies have to come up with new uniforms. One of the most memorable movements of this type happened in the Golden Age of air travel in the 60s. With myriad new airlines springing up overnight, everyone competed to have the funkiest and most forward-leaning uniforms on the block, with truly memorable results. Even Pucci got in on the game-- witness the Braniff Air photo below, with illustrations of the 4 "Phases" of his famous "Air-Strip". The results are truly inspiring for the modern viewer(as well as occasionally highly amusing.) I've assembled some of my favourite finds below.

Signing off for the Shrimpton team,

Alexandra






[Images via Dark Roasted Blend]




14.7.09

Histories

Hello there! My name is Alexandra Fallows and I'm one of the new guest bloggers here. I can most generally be found over at Musie, where I ramble on about art, photography, fashion, and whatever else happens to catch my fancy. Here I shall do my utmost to limit my vagaries to vintage clothes and things pertaining to them. Feel free to virtually slap my hand if I veer too far off-topic… I do tend to be a bit of a chatterbox.


Anyways, introduction done. On to content.

One of the things that draws me most strongly to vintage clothing are the stories contained within the clothing. I’m enchanted by the histories and personas that can be assumed simply by donning an item from a given era. You know the drill. The slightest hint of marabou and (in your head at least) you're simpering like the dizziest of starlets, menswear-inspired pantsuits make you imagine you can drawl like Katharine Hepburn, and perfectly-tailored Forties summer dresses turn you into an Italian grandmother.

No?

Works that way for me.

As a child, I spent countless secret hours poring over pictures of my step-grandmother I discovered while snooping through my stepfather's bureau. She appeared in many guises, but the two that stood out the most were the proud mother, clad in a pale summery dress, leading her chubby-kneed sons by the hands through the streets of postwar Rome, and the dreamy light-eyed girl in the white cotton dress leaning against the steps of her family's home in Venice. I would trace the lines of her face and her dresses with my fingers, dreaming life into the black and white images. It seemed an incredible task to reconcile the visions I saw here to the more familiar figure of the ageing matriarch, presiding with a mixture of lace ruffles and steel backbone over the world of her beloved sons. Eventually, features would emerge to prove to me that this was in fact the same woman—the unmistakable line of her flat nose, the particular shade of her lovely eyes, and most of all, her proper carriage and sense of decorum, evident even through these static images.

These pictures stayed with me, adding to the arsenal that makes up my mental idea of what it is to be Properly Dressed, in the primmest, most underscored, most delightfully old-fashioned sense of the word. By the time I knew her, Nonna Luisa possessed the fantastic style characteristic of elderly bourgeois Northern Italian women, but tracing her past and her development as a woman (always impeccably dressed and presented) allowed me a glimpse at what it was that defined the image she presented to the world. To this day, when I come across dresses of a certain cut, I am instantly projected to thoughts of a young Venetian woman living in Rome with her husband and three rambunctious boys, in the precarious period when Italy was picking itself back up and inspecting the extent of its wounds. I don’t know enough about her life to do more than romanticise it, but I do like to think I don a little bit of her grace and backbone when I put on something in her style.

Sadly, the pictures I talk about are all at home in Italy, and unless one of my family there can be prevailed upon to learn to operate a scanner properly, I fear they won’t see the light of day in these parts. This picture of this pretty dress shall have to suffice. While not precisely in Nonna Luisa's style, it conveys the same sense of grace and practicality that I got from her pictures. I think she would have approved.

Signing off for the Shrimpton team,

Yours in maunderings and mental wanderings,

Alexandra

11.7.09

This dress has a past


I first met the dress in the 1960s, some 30 years after it was created. Hi my name is Karen and I want to tell you a story.
I was the poor starving New York artist living in a loft on the Bowery across from Hilly's which later became CBGB. I paid 27.50 a month for a 500 square feet studio(illegal to live in) and did my dishes in the shower. I just graduated from Hunter College studying with Marc Rothko, Robert Morris and Raymond Parker with a MFA in painting. I also got my first real job directing Leo Castelli Graphics where I meet artists that inspired me as a student, Andy Warhol, Jasper Johns, Roy Lichtenstein to name a few. I was both awe struck and intimidated and wondered why I got the job as I was in my early 20's from Maryland and thought that bagels were a breed of dog. I was expected to attend the gallery and museum openings and had nothing suitable to wear until I discovered Harriet Love's vintage store on West Broadway. In the store window was the Dress that stopped me made me spent my first pay check of $127.50 and turned me into a vintage addict for the rest of my life.

The Dress became my History. I wore her to the opening night of the Ansel Adams retrospective in the 70's, I danced the night away with my husband at a embassy party in Guatemala and later that night I knew that I was pregnant with my daughter Kate. The dress was retired for many years as we moved to Toronto to start family life in the 80's. . My husband asked me one day what I was going to do with all my vintage collection and that got me started.again. More collecting. exhibiting and meeting others with the same love. The dress was bought by another artist several years ago and is now waiting to start a new history at Shrimpton. I hope the young lady who buys her has the passionate adventures that I have in the forty years that I have known her.
For the Shrimpton Team,
Stories and vintage from life in the trenches
Karen Jeffery Collection
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